The following serves as a guideline only. It is recommended that a professional tile installer do the installation of any natural tile.
It is the responsibility of the tile installer for the final outcome of the installed floor or wall application.
Required Tools:
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The following information is geared towards assisting the occasional remodeler/do-it-yourselfer.
For project involving stone or ceramic tile, it begins with a good sub-floor. Remodeling or new construct, your first consideration is the sub-floor.
It is imperative to check door heights and transitions areas from one area to another. (i.e. From the newly installed stone to areas such as carpeting or wooden flooring.) Once you have established that the application of new stone flooring is acceptable without major re-construction, you're ready to proceed.
Remove existing flooring and sub-strate (i.e. plywood, durock, etc.) if replacing existing ceramic or stone. Examine sub-floor for signs of dry rot or structural deterioration. If the area of installation is in proper order and not in need of repair, you are ready to install your new natural stone floor, beginning with the placement of the sub-strate.
In this application, 1/4" or 1/2" masonry substrate (durock) will be used. Durock is recommended because it is "user-friendly". There are other substrate systems available, but are beyond this basic installation procedure and require the experience of a professional tile installer.
Durock is available in 3' x 5' sheets. Several variables will determine whether or not you are able to use 1/4" or 1/2" thickness. Natural clef calibrated vs. gauged stone, or machined 3/8" material of limestone, granite, marble or travertine. Thicker and un-machined material requires less substrate. It is best to check with a professional installer for the recommended thickness of sub-strate.
Applying the sub-strate calls for placing full sheets on center to the area of application of stone. Using a chalk line, strike on-center locations of the width and length of the area of application. Once established, trowel a bed of 3/8" x 3/8" mortar for each sub-strate sheet used. Doing so one at a time. Lay one sheet at a time in place and secure with drywall screws. (3/4" - 1 ?" depending upon sub-strate thickness). Screws should be placed in 8" - 10" square throughout the sheet.
Upon completion of setting sub-strate material, seams are ready for filling. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape all seams using the straight edge of your notched trowel. Apply a thin coat of mortar to each seam. To assist in getting as uniformed application as possible a 6" drywall knife may be used to dress up your seams. Allow at least 12 hours to dry.
You are now ready to set your stone.
First find the "on-center" point of the length and width of the designated work area. L-shaped areas or irregular configurations should be measured separately, yet still on-center of each other. All patterns should start at the on-center junction of the width and length of the largest area.
Trowel mortar at 2 sq. ft. at a time. This will allow for the proper setting of the tile. It is highly recommended that tile spacers be used at each corner of the tile in order to keep joint lines even. Tile spacers are made of rubber and can easily be removed after the mortar has set-up.
Set the field (main part of the floor) first. Allow at least 24 hours to dry before returning to mark, cut and set the perimeter (outside) cuts.
Once all the tiles have been set allow at least 24 hours to dry - giving the mortar sufficient time to set up and harden.
Acid Wash
The newly laid area must be completely washed before grouting and sealing. Using a tile sponge, mix 1/2 cup of muriatic acid to two (2) gallons of cold water. Proper ventilation is very important, be sure to open cross-windows and/or exterior doors. Acid resistant gloves and a respirator mask must also be used. It is recommended that the floor be allowed to dry 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.
Seal
Using a cloth or brush, apply the first coat of sealant to the stone before grouting. Follow the directions on the label. Most sealers should be allowed to absorb into the stone for at least 45 minutes to one hour.
Grout
Once the first coat of sealer is dry, mix your selected color of floor grout to a smooth consistency. Please note, there are two kinds of grout: sanded and unsanded. Typically, sanded grouts are used for flooring or when joint lines are greater than 1/8" wide. Unsanded grout is used primarily for wall applications or when the joint lines are 1/16" to 1/8". Unsanded grout is also used when polished stone (i.e. marble or granite) is used.
Grouting is not complicated, however, patience is required. Work in areas of 2-3 sq. ft. at a time. Work the grout into the joints with a rubber float. Using the float diagonally across the joint lines, pull access grout back from the area you are grouting, towards the next area to be grouted. Once access grout has been removed, clean the grouted area with sponge and cold clean water - again moving diagonally across the joint lines. Wash the stone to a point where only a slight film remains, being careful not to over-saturate the sponge with water. Repeat this process until entire area is done. Allow 24 hours to dry.
After drying repeat the acid wash step and again allow the floor to dry completely.
Seal - Final Application
Apply second and final coat of sealer using a cloth or brush. Allow this final coat 24 hours to dry.
